Panama

The excitement about the Panama Canal builds as we approach Colon and see many ships in the distance. In fact, check out this photo taken of our chart plotter. Each little triangle is a ship. They are almost all anchored, waiting to transit the canal (or in some cases to be loaded/unloaded in the port). Can be tricky to pick out the one that’s actually moving, that needs to be avoided!

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Crossing the swath of ships, we get to Shelter Bay Marina. Ah, showers and laundry services and a restaurant!

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Our new alternator was successfully (and expensively!) delivered. We installed it, and it works fine. A new propeller for our hydro-generator has also arrived, and is now installed. We discovered two broken bits of rigging hardware, and people have promised to help us with replacements, but they haven’t shown up yet. We have also noticed that the bolts holding the stays for our sprit (where the forward sail is connected) are starting to bend. The connection for these stays is not very well designed, and we are hoping to come up with a better solution before we head into the Pacific. In other words, we have boat projects still.

But also we have BPO things to do. For starters, this is the first place where the Key West boats and the boats that started in Martinique are together at a marina. So there is lots of socializing, both on boats and at the restaurant, as we all get to know each other. For some reason our crew seems to have an affinity for the Martinique crowd more than the Key West contingent. (Not that there’s anyone we don’t like, of course. And probably by the time we go through the Galapagos we will no longer be making a distinction about where boats started.) And Jimmy Cornell (BPO organizer) is in town, and planning some of our activities.

We had a delightful briefing by Jimmy about the wonders to come of the Galapagos, the Marquesas, the Tuomotus, the Society Islands (which include Tahiti), and even a little hint about what he’s cooking up for Indonesia. We’ve also had a less pleasant briefing about the administrative requirements for entering the Galapagos, which are onerous and at times non-sensical, and which seem to change almost daily. Boats have been turned away for not complying with unreasonable requirements!

But first comes the Canal. Transit through the Canal also has many requirements. Each boat requires, in addition to the “master” of the ship, four line handlers. We will have to hire two. And we must have four 125′ long 7/8″ lines. We have zero that qualify, but the BPO is providing these, plus tires to be available as fenders. A measurer has to come in advance, and ask lots of questions about the boat, measure its length and width, and provide an official number to identify it for Canal purposes. We’ve made it through this step. All the BPO boats had to be measured before the Canal Authority would schedule our transit. On Tuesday the Authority gave us permission to transit on Wednesday. Wait!! No one was ready; provisioning is not done; projects are in mid-stream. Jimmy had been pushing for fast transit because it can take many days before it is scheduled, but now he had to reply that we couldn’t go on the schedule offered!

The revised plan is for 6 boats to start Saturday and complete Sunday, and the remaining 5 to start Monday and complete Tuesday. With the revised schedule they could not give us an entire lock to our fleet of 11 boats, because every boat requires a Canal pilot (who gives directions where to go, how fast, how to tie up in the locks, etc), and this weekend being Carnival weekend they say they had to cancel some scheduled vacations to accommodate us at all! We are in the second group, which reduces the time pressure on us and our incomplete projects. Our two extra days won’t help much, though, since they are Saturday and Sunday, when we won’t be able to get any materials or outside assistance. The time will help me catch up with my blog though, before we head to the big no-wifi zone of the ocean…

With this post, I am going to consider Part 1 of the Blue Planet Odyssey complete. The BPO isn’t really divided into “parts” — this is my own view of it. Getting to the Canal staging area was, in my mind, the first part. Part 2 will take us through the Canal and include many adventures in the Pacific Ocean.

Recap With Photos #3

Interesting theme to mural on our restaurant on Nargana Island.
Interesting theme to mural on our restaurant on Nargana Island.
Arrived in Coco Bandero Cays (still in San Blas).  I like it!
Arrived in Coco Bandero Cays (still in San Blas). I like it!

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Our immediate neighbor is fellow Odyssey boat "Tom Tom".
Our immediate neighbor is fellow Odyssey boat “Tom Tom”.

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Salty selfie.
Salty selfie.
Bill attacks coconut.
Bill attacks coconut.
Most boats anchor behind islands that shelter them from the wind as well as the waves.
Most boats anchor behind islands that shelter them from the wind as well as the waves.
But in this heat we want all the wind we can get, so we anchor just behind the reef.  A little bumpy, but cooler and more private.  Thing in the water is Tim snorkeling.
But in this heat we want all the wind we can get, so we anchor just behind the reef. A little bumpy, but cooler and more private. Thing in the water is Tim snorkeling.

Sorry no photos of reef fish or rays or sea turtles or sharks or even the 12′ crocodile that was seen by one boat!

At this point we left San Blas and started back toward “civilization” in Colon (near the mouth of the Panama Canal) via Portobelo. Portobelo is a very old town, where Spanish gold was brought across Panama from the Pacific side, and then shipped to Spain. Lots of old forts and cannons at Portobelo!

We anchored near the remains of one of the Portobelo forts.
We anchored near the remains of one of the Portobelo forts.
View across the harbor toward the town.
View across the harbor toward the town.
Exploring the town.
Exploring the town.
A major attraction is the 'Black Christ' in the church.  I didn't realize there could be multiple Christs, but people come from afar to worship this one!
A major attraction is the ‘Black Christ’ in the church. I didn’t realize there could be multiple Christs, but people come from afar to worship this one!

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One of several signs for Captain Jack's, where we would go for dinner later.
One of several signs for Captain Jack’s, where we would go for dinner later.
Dancing is big in town.  Unfortunately we are a week too early for Carnival, with local dancing happening all night.
Dancing is big in town. Unfortunately we are a week too early for Carnival, with local dancing happening all night.
This place seemed odd, even for Portobelo, which seems to be a mix of many cultures.
This place seemed odd, even for Portobelo, which seems to be a mix of many cultures.
Dinner with Odyssey-mates at Captain Jack's.
Dinner with Odyssey-mates at Captain Jack’s.
Bill heads the landing party to explore the fort.
Bill heads the landing party to explore the fort.

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Our neighbors.
Our neighbors.

Next stop will be Shelter Bay Marina in Colon. End of the Panama “cruise” and back to life at a dock with showers and a restaurant. And a very important canal. Stay tuned…

Recap With Photos #2

Guna ladies selling molas.  Note that though they agreed to the photo, they mostly hide their faces.
Guna ladies selling molas. Note that though they agreed to the photo, they mostly hide their faces.
But the teenagers aren't shy about photos.
But the teenagers aren’t shy about photos.
3 generations in a dugout.
3 generations in a dugout.
Dinghies into town...
Dinghies into town…
Next neighborhood over.
Next neighborhood over.
Interesting technology mix.
Interesting technology mix.

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Management of garbage is not a strong point.
Management of garbage is not a strong point.
Local school was unfortunately on holiday for a month.
Local school was unfortunately on holiday for a month.
Nestor in his home. (Sorry Nestor that it isn't a better quality picture.)
Nestor in his home. (Sorry Nestor that it isn’t a better quality picture.)
We saw four yachts on the reefs and heard about more! Usual cause is trying to come in at night when you can't see the water colors that indicate where the reefs are.
We saw four yachts on the reefs and heard about more! Usual cause is trying to come in at night when you can’t see the water colors that indicate where the reefs are.
Catamaran on reef.
Catamaran on reef.
This boat looked like it was still sailing, but too close to shore...
This boat looked like it was still sailing, but too close to shore…
Nope, it's definitely on the reef!
Nope, it’s definitely on the reef!
Rio Diablo
Rio Diablo
Rio Diablo
Rio Diablo
The gentleman that we towed part way upstream, going for fresh water.
The gentleman that we towed part way upstream, going for fresh water.