Category Archives: 4. Key West to Panama

Team Rock! Questions

Do you guys have to do daylight savings time on the sea?

Time at sea is an interesting thing.  The three of us could declare it to be any time we want, and it wouldn’t much matter, EXCEPT that sometimes we have scheduled radio calls with other boats.  Our time has to be in sync with their time or we miss the call.  If their boat is far east or west of ours, then it might be in a different “time zone,” and saying we’re going to have a call at 3pm could lead to problems — 3pm their time might not be the same as 3pm our time.  (In California, for example, it is 3 hours earlier than in Maine, so 3pm on the West Coast is 6pm in Maine.)

In order to avoid this confusion at sea, sailors refer to UTC time.  (UTC stands for the French phrase for Universal Coordinated Time.)  This used to be called GMT (Greenwich Mean Time), referring to the time in Greenwich, England, and it may also be called Zulu time.  All of these refer to the time at longitude 0 degrees.  If another boat agrees to a radio call at 1600 UTC (4pm at 0 degrees longitude), each boat can figure out what time that is locally.  In our current time zone (same as Maine), we are 5 hours earlier than UTC, so it would be at 1100 (11am) local time.  UTC time does not get adjusted for daylight savings.  So once Maine goes on daylight savings time, the difference between Maine and UTC will become 4 hours instead of 5 hours.

To keep things simple, many boats at sea just set the clock to UTC time and stop thinking about what time it is locally, so you don’t have to keep converting back and forth.  In that case the crew doesn’t have to “do” daylight savings time, until they interact with people ashore, when you have to get in sync with everyone else.

What do you mean by “gringos?”

In most of Latin America, including in Panama, “gringo” generally refers to any citizen of the United States.  In some cases it is applied primarily to white people, but not exclusively so.  It sometimes is used in a disparaging way (an American who does not respect the local culture, maybe doesn’t speak Spanish or doesn’t try to, who expects things to be like what they are accustomed to in the USA instead of adapting to the local ways), but often it is simply referring to one’s origin.  The three of us aboard No Regrets are gringos.

How long do you think it might be before global warming goes into full effect?

This is a hard one!  First of all, the term “global warming” is not used much anymore, because when Maine has a winter with record snowfall and cold temperatures, it doesn’t appear that “warming” is occurring at all.  Usually the term “climate change” is used instead, since this is all-encompassing of temperature variations, shifts in rain and snowfall, length of seasons, and other factors that scientists tell us are changing primarily due to increased carbon levels in our atmosphere.  Climate change is not intrinsically a bad thing, and in fact we know that there are huge changes to the climate over thousands of years due to factors that are mostly beyond human control (e.g., volcanic eruptions; ice ages).  But climate change is very disruptive.  It will change the coastline; it will force people near the coast out of their homes; it may cause droughts that will destroy traditional farmlands; it may cause floods; etc.  So climate change is generally considered “bad” in the context of things under human control (like how much coal and oil we burn), and “just the way it is” in the context of “geologic time” (many thousands of years).

I am no expert on climate change.  But my belief is that the effects caused by humans burning fossil fuels are already happening, and cannot be readily turned back.  We know that the average ocean water temperature has been rising.  This causes the water to expand a little, and the only way it can expand is “up,” so sea level rises slightly.  We also know that Greenland and Antarctic ice has been melting, which also contributes to sea level rise.  I think these trends cannot quickly be reversed.  So even though they have not yet caused widespread disruptions, I think we will see incremental changes/disruptions over many years to come, even if humans were to reduce the burning of fossil fuels now.

One aspect of the Blue Planet Odyssey is to raise these questions and call attention to them.  We need to think about the possible long-term effects of our collective behavior, and push our leaders to make well-informed policy choices.

Is it easy to sleep on the boat?

Sometimes yes, sometimes no.   When we are in a marina like we are now, where the water is calm and the boat is well protected, it’s pretty much like sleeping at home.  When we’re sailing in substantial waves, it is much harder.  It becomes noisy, the boat can toss you around on your berth, and occasinally a wave will slap the side or bottom of the boat with a jarring thud that is almost impossible to sleep through.

But on passage we get into a rhythm of sleeping when we can, and even when it is rough we eventually become so exhausted that we sleep, or do something close to it.

When sailing in smooth waters it can be delightful to lie in your berth and feel the energy of the boat moving, and the gentle surge of the ocean, and this can put one right to sleep.  But smooth waters generally means “along shore,” which usually means short day sails, and thus we are not often trying to sleep in these conditions.

If you had all the money in the world, what would you buy for the people on the island, and why?

I’m going to assume by “people on the island” you refer to the local Guna people on the many San Blas islands.  Let me know if I’m not answering your intended question.

When Jimmy Cornell planned the Blue Planet Odyssey, he wrote to an administrator of the Guna, and asked if there was some way that we could contribute.  Jimmy was thinking of helping to build something — a school or a water cachement system.  The response he got was that they didn’t want our help with such things, and if we wanted to help we should contribute money to a scholarship fund to help send some young people to college.

I’m very skeptical about efforts to help other people, other than to help them do what they are committed to doing anyway.  So I think a scholarship fund to help students who want to attend college is a good idea, and that is one thing I would do.  Other things tend to have unexpected/unintended consequences.  It’s tempting to give outboard motors to people paddling canoes, but this might cause big (and potentially troublesome) changes in the culture that I couldn’t foresee.

What kind of transportation did they use on San Blas island?

You may have already figured out the answer to this from my recent posts.  Almost all transportation is by boat, and in most cases the boats are dugout canoes (some with little sailing rigs) or larger skiffs with outboards.  There are no cars, because the individual islands are too tiny.  I don’t recall even seeing any carts or wheelbarrows.  There are small airports on a couple of the islands, usually with one small plane per day coming/going to the mainland.

Panama

The excitement about the Panama Canal builds as we approach Colon and see many ships in the distance. In fact, check out this photo taken of our chart plotter. Each little triangle is a ship. They are almost all anchored, waiting to transit the canal (or in some cases to be loaded/unloaded in the port). Can be tricky to pick out the one that’s actually moving, that needs to be avoided!

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Crossing the swath of ships, we get to Shelter Bay Marina. Ah, showers and laundry services and a restaurant!

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Our new alternator was successfully (and expensively!) delivered. We installed it, and it works fine. A new propeller for our hydro-generator has also arrived, and is now installed. We discovered two broken bits of rigging hardware, and people have promised to help us with replacements, but they haven’t shown up yet. We have also noticed that the bolts holding the stays for our sprit (where the forward sail is connected) are starting to bend. The connection for these stays is not very well designed, and we are hoping to come up with a better solution before we head into the Pacific. In other words, we have boat projects still.

But also we have BPO things to do. For starters, this is the first place where the Key West boats and the boats that started in Martinique are together at a marina. So there is lots of socializing, both on boats and at the restaurant, as we all get to know each other. For some reason our crew seems to have an affinity for the Martinique crowd more than the Key West contingent. (Not that there’s anyone we don’t like, of course. And probably by the time we go through the Galapagos we will no longer be making a distinction about where boats started.) And Jimmy Cornell (BPO organizer) is in town, and planning some of our activities.

We had a delightful briefing by Jimmy about the wonders to come of the Galapagos, the Marquesas, the Tuomotus, the Society Islands (which include Tahiti), and even a little hint about what he’s cooking up for Indonesia. We’ve also had a less pleasant briefing about the administrative requirements for entering the Galapagos, which are onerous and at times non-sensical, and which seem to change almost daily. Boats have been turned away for not complying with unreasonable requirements!

But first comes the Canal. Transit through the Canal also has many requirements. Each boat requires, in addition to the “master” of the ship, four line handlers. We will have to hire two. And we must have four 125′ long 7/8″ lines. We have zero that qualify, but the BPO is providing these, plus tires to be available as fenders. A measurer has to come in advance, and ask lots of questions about the boat, measure its length and width, and provide an official number to identify it for Canal purposes. We’ve made it through this step. All the BPO boats had to be measured before the Canal Authority would schedule our transit. On Tuesday the Authority gave us permission to transit on Wednesday. Wait!! No one was ready; provisioning is not done; projects are in mid-stream. Jimmy had been pushing for fast transit because it can take many days before it is scheduled, but now he had to reply that we couldn’t go on the schedule offered!

The revised plan is for 6 boats to start Saturday and complete Sunday, and the remaining 5 to start Monday and complete Tuesday. With the revised schedule they could not give us an entire lock to our fleet of 11 boats, because every boat requires a Canal pilot (who gives directions where to go, how fast, how to tie up in the locks, etc), and this weekend being Carnival weekend they say they had to cancel some scheduled vacations to accommodate us at all! We are in the second group, which reduces the time pressure on us and our incomplete projects. Our two extra days won’t help much, though, since they are Saturday and Sunday, when we won’t be able to get any materials or outside assistance. The time will help me catch up with my blog though, before we head to the big no-wifi zone of the ocean…

With this post, I am going to consider Part 1 of the Blue Planet Odyssey complete. The BPO isn’t really divided into “parts” — this is my own view of it. Getting to the Canal staging area was, in my mind, the first part. Part 2 will take us through the Canal and include many adventures in the Pacific Ocean.

Recap With Photos #3

Interesting theme to mural on our restaurant on Nargana Island.
Interesting theme to mural on our restaurant on Nargana Island.
Arrived in Coco Bandero Cays (still in San Blas).  I like it!
Arrived in Coco Bandero Cays (still in San Blas). I like it!

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Our immediate neighbor is fellow Odyssey boat "Tom Tom".
Our immediate neighbor is fellow Odyssey boat “Tom Tom”.

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Salty selfie.
Salty selfie.
Bill attacks coconut.
Bill attacks coconut.
Most boats anchor behind islands that shelter them from the wind as well as the waves.
Most boats anchor behind islands that shelter them from the wind as well as the waves.
But in this heat we want all the wind we can get, so we anchor just behind the reef.  A little bumpy, but cooler and more private.  Thing in the water is Tim snorkeling.
But in this heat we want all the wind we can get, so we anchor just behind the reef. A little bumpy, but cooler and more private. Thing in the water is Tim snorkeling.

Sorry no photos of reef fish or rays or sea turtles or sharks or even the 12′ crocodile that was seen by one boat!

At this point we left San Blas and started back toward “civilization” in Colon (near the mouth of the Panama Canal) via Portobelo. Portobelo is a very old town, where Spanish gold was brought across Panama from the Pacific side, and then shipped to Spain. Lots of old forts and cannons at Portobelo!

We anchored near the remains of one of the Portobelo forts.
We anchored near the remains of one of the Portobelo forts.
View across the harbor toward the town.
View across the harbor toward the town.
Exploring the town.
Exploring the town.
A major attraction is the 'Black Christ' in the church.  I didn't realize there could be multiple Christs, but people come from afar to worship this one!
A major attraction is the ‘Black Christ’ in the church. I didn’t realize there could be multiple Christs, but people come from afar to worship this one!

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One of several signs for Captain Jack's, where we would go for dinner later.
One of several signs for Captain Jack’s, where we would go for dinner later.
Dancing is big in town.  Unfortunately we are a week too early for Carnival, with local dancing happening all night.
Dancing is big in town. Unfortunately we are a week too early for Carnival, with local dancing happening all night.
This place seemed odd, even for Portobelo, which seems to be a mix of many cultures.
This place seemed odd, even for Portobelo, which seems to be a mix of many cultures.
Dinner with Odyssey-mates at Captain Jack's.
Dinner with Odyssey-mates at Captain Jack’s.
Bill heads the landing party to explore the fort.
Bill heads the landing party to explore the fort.

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Our neighbors.
Our neighbors.

Next stop will be Shelter Bay Marina in Colon. End of the Panama “cruise” and back to life at a dock with showers and a restaurant. And a very important canal. Stay tuned…