Sand, Beautiful Sand

We struck out finding a mooring to rent. We asked at the yacht club, and no one knew. We found a number for the commodore, who told us they have none available. The local boat tour operators said none available. Yet there are plenty of empty moorings. The second morning here we saw a Sunsail Charter crew cleaning a boat nearby, so I dinghied over and asked them. “Oh, the mooring you’re on belongs to a boat that is up on the hard; just stay there, no problem.” Okay, that works.

We also struck out finding a 4×4 we could rent and drive out into the desert. Nothing available. But while we were asking one of the waterfront tour operators about moorings, she booked a tour for two women from Germany, and…we thought…maybe we should switch gears and do a tour instead of wandering about on our own. What a good move that turned out to be! We declined the harbor tour in the morning (cold, damp, and besides we have a seal hauling out on the back of our boat — we don’t need to book a tour to see ’em). We signed up for the afternoon tour to see the desert sand dunes.

Herman was our guide, and in his very cool Land Rover it was just the 3 of us and the two Germans. Herman turns out to be a rather special character. One of 6 people with permission to go anywhere in the national parks. A vast knowledge and a wicked sense of humor. We drove out the point that makes Walvis a bay. It’s just a sand bar, largely covered with salt pools drying in the sun. We “peppered” him with questions about how the salt works works. He had the answers, and I think he warmed up more and more to us in appreciation of our thoughtful inquisitiveness.

Then south along the desert/beach. Fast. Herman is a test driver for BMW, and it became ever more clear that he is an expert in driving in sand. We got stories about overturned self-drives, and vehicles stuck in quicksand. There were seals on the beach (some alive, some dead), springbok, jackals and ostrich. But mostly amazing sand dunes.

Herman dropped us off atop a particularly beautiful dune, and told us to meet him at the bottom — lunch would be ready. Very nice to take off the shoes and walk in the hot sand. And a very nice touch that lunch included chilled oysters on the half shell (raised in Walvis Bay, and perhaps the best I’ve ever had), and champagne!

On the way back we told Herman we were hoping to visit Dune 7 tomorrow. Everyone says you have to go to Dune 7. He gave us the name of another guide who might be able to take us there plus other destinations. We had an enjoyable sushi dinner at a restaurant near the yacht club, that had photos on the wall of boats competing for the world speed record under sail. Checking online, we see that the record was set 4 years ago in the lagoon right there in Walvis Bay. And the record is…65 knots! That’s hard to imagine. Wish we could have seen it happening. (That record, which is about 75 miles per hour, is over a 500 meter course.)

Next morning we call Herman’s friend Matthew, and we find he is available (despite a cruise ship coming in; he despises cruise shippers), and will give us a tour to the town of Swakopmund and the “moonscape” and Dune 7. So again we are off and touring. We got to see some interesting places, but for me at least, the day was about climbing Dune 7. You have to see the pictures, of which I can’t resist providing too many… On the way back Matthew let us stop at a supermarket to top up our supplies, and he also invited us to his house for coffee (surprising his wife by bringing guests home unexpectedly).

A little more wifi at the yacht club before heading back aboard to cook dinner. Tomorrow we will clear out. Matthew is going to meet us at 9 to take us to customs/immigrations, at the other side of town. Then off to St Helena, 1200 miles (about 8 days) toward Brazil.

Leaving Cape Town and Table Mountain behind.
Leaving Cape Town and Table Mountain behind.
Ah, life at sea ain't bad.
Ah, life at sea ain’t bad.
Lots of whales around the first evening, but the best I could do was this shot of a fin slapping the water.
Lots of whales around the first evening, but the best I could do was this shot of a fin slapping the water.
After 4 1/2 days we pick up a mooring here in Walvis Bay, Namibia. Note the fog receding, resulting in a nice sunny day from about noon to 4pm. The rest of the time is cold, even though technically we are a little north of the Tropic of Capricorn.
After 4 1/2 days we pick up a mooring here in Walvis Bay, Namibia. Note the fog receding, resulting in a nice sunny day from about noon to 4pm. The rest of the time is cold, even though technically we are a little north of the Tropic of Capricorn.
Lots of Cape Fur Seals in the area, including this one drifting around our mooring buoy.
Lots of Cape Fur Seals in the area, including this one drifting around our mooring buoy.
When the sun shines they like to haul out on any available surface... Brings back memories of the sea lions in the Galapagos!
When the sun shines they like to haul out on any available surface… Brings back memories of the sea lions in the Galapagos!
Despite most Americans having no idea where Namibia is, this is a touristy waterfront. Mostly Germans. Tourism is a rapidly growing industry here.
Despite most Americans having no idea where Namibia is, this is a touristy waterfront. Mostly Germans. Tourism is a rapidly growing industry here.
First stop on our tour is to see flamingos. The oil rig in the background is simply parked here, taken off station because it is not profitable to operate with low oil prices.
First stop on our tour is to see flamingos. The oil rig in the background is simply parked here, taken off station because it is not profitable to operate with low oil prices.
No Regrets in the background...
No Regrets in the background…
Just across from the flamingos -- a suburban neighborhood in the desert.
Just across from the flamingos — a suburban neighborhood in the desert.
Driving (did I mention Fast?) along the shore.
Driving (did I mention Fast?) along the shore.
National park on the right; no-rules playground on the left.
National park on the right; no-rules playground on the left.

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Our vehicle, with a map of Namibia on the hood.
Our vehicle, with a map of Namibia on the hood.
They say this is the only place in the world where the dunes of the desert extend right to the ocean!
They say this is the only place in the world where the dunes of the desert extend right to the ocean!
Like pictures of waves, it is hard to capture the scale and the steepness. You didn't want to stand at the top, for fear of slipping and falling/sliding down a long, long way!
Like pictures of waves, it is hard to capture the scale and the steepness. You didn’t want to stand at the top, for fear of slipping and falling/sliding down a long, long way!
Time to head inland (Herman says we now leave the moguls behind and head for the big stuff).
Time to head inland (Herman says we now leave the moguls behind and head for the big stuff).

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Springbok, through the car window.
Springbok, through the car window.
Ostrich, through the car window.
Ostrich, through the car window.
I found this AWESOME.
I found this AWESOME.
Liam adds to his collection of sands from around the world.
Liam adds to his collection of sands from around the world.

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Dropping in for lunch.
Dropping in for lunch.
Chilled oysters on the half shell...in the desert...very, very nice!
Chilled oysters on the half shell…in the desert…very, very nice!
On the way back, there are jackals lunching on a dead seal.
On the way back, there are jackals lunching on a dead seal.
And lots more flamingos...
And lots more flamingos…

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Next day Tour #2 takes us first to the town of Swakopmund. Walvis Bay was controlled by the British; the Germans came there but then moved on to Swakopmund to get away from the British rule. Walvis Bay remained a disconnected part of South Africa when Namibia was defined. It was incorporated into Namibia only within the lifetime of our young guide. So his was born in Walvis Bay, South Africa, and now holds dual citizenship as a resident of Walvis Bay, Namibia.
Next day Tour #2 takes us first to the town of Swakopmund. Walvis Bay was controlled by the British; the Germans came there but then moved on to Swakopmund to get away from the British rule. Walvis Bay remained a disconnected part of South Africa when Namibia was defined. It was incorporated into Namibia only within the lifetime of our young guide. So his was born in Walvis Bay, South Africa, and now holds dual citizenship as a resident of Walvis Bay, Namibia.
The old (no longer used) train station.
The old (no longer used) train station.
A steam driven tractor intended for travel in the desert. It didn't work -- it got stuck.
A steam driven tractor intended for travel in the desert. It didn’t work — it got stuck.
The "moonscape."
The “moonscape.”
So this must be a lunar rover? Or a batch of cruise shippers.
So this must be a lunar rover? Or a batch of cruise shippers.
Winding down into the craters...
Winding down into the craters…
...to this oasis (literally; there is water here), where we stopped for lunch.
…to this oasis (literally; there is water here), where we stopped for lunch.
We encountered a non-indigenous animal there!
We encountered a non-indigenous animal there!
Then back on the road. A very straight road!
Then back on the road. A very straight road!
Our first glimpse of Dune 7. We thought we would be trying sand boarding...
Our first glimpse of Dune 7. We thought we would be trying sand boarding…
...but recently the rules were changed...
…but recently the rules were changed…
Walking up is going to be enough of a challenge.
Walking up is going to be enough of a challenge.
Some people go for the direct frontal ascent...
Some people go for the direct frontal ascent…
...but our guide suggested we take the ridge up the side (while he snoozes in the car).
…but our guide suggested we take the ridge up the side (while he snoozes in the car).

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Going first is surprisingly harder than following in the footsteps.
Going first is surprisingly harder than following in the footsteps.
Lots of rest stops!
Lots of rest stops!

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Photos of me are courtesy of Liam.
Photos of me are courtesy of Liam.
A young lady taking the direct route.
A young lady taking the direct route.
And getting to the top just as we do.
And getting to the top just as we do.
We did it!
We did it!

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We will be taking the direct route down...
We will be taking the direct route down…
There are many downhill styles. We won't be practicing this one.
There are many downhill styles. We won’t be practicing this one.
Okay, Nora, go for it!
Okay, Nora, go for it!

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Back to our aquatic home; reclaiming our territory from our visitor. Time to update the blog and get some sleep before setting off across an ocean tomorrow!
Back to our aquatic home; reclaiming our territory from our visitor. Time to update the blog and get some sleep before setting off across an ocean tomorrow!

Cape Town to Walvis Bay, Namibia

Visit Namibia? Why not! We decided to go; the others decided to head straight for St Helena. We had been told that checking out on a Sunday would be simple, a 20 minute process. Nothing is simple. For starters it was a half hour walk to where the authorities are. We got cleared by the port authority, and immigrations was next door and held no surprises. But customs was another matter. We had no paper clearing us in to Cape Town. Our clearance into Durban was of no interest. We couldn’t be cleared out of Cape Town without a clearance in. I asked the gentleman what I was to do, given that the yacht club had told us we were properly cleared in, yet we didn’t have the required paper. Well, we would have to clear in before we could clear out, and that would involve a fine for our delay, and on Sunday they don’t handle money so we would have to return tomorrow.

We walked the half hour back to the yacht club, where Diane was helping us. She said this has not been a problem in the thirteen years she has been clearing yachts in and out. She got on the phone and insisted that we had to leave today, and a supervisor must call her back within the hour. It was a good effort, but the rules apparently had changed and Customs was not budging. Our fine was to be 1,500 Rand (a little over $100), and must be paid in the morning.

So…what would happen if we simply left, I asked. Nothing. Our passports were already stamped. The next port would normally expect a clearance, which could be troublesome, but we could argue our case there. On Verra, our friends bound directly for Grenada (6-7 weeks away!), had already given up and left. Diane offered that she would just go. We went.

Today we begin Day 4 of this 700+ mile passage. Winds have been fresh, occasionally down to 15 or up to 35, but mostly in the low/mid 20’s. Almost directly behind us. The other boats (they also left when we did) have gradually worked their way west of us, but we still connect with them on our morning and evening radio net.

The first evening we saw whales all around as the sun was setting. They were mostly in the distance, but just after Liam and I went below to sleep, Nora spied two crossing our bow. One dove just a few feet from the boat! Sorry, no photo.

Today is also day-after-election-day. Both Nora and I sent in our ballots from Cape Town. Liam didn’t vote (ha ha, he’s British). I tried to get early results from Hallie via Sailmail before the end of my watch last night, but I forgot that the US had just ended daylight savings time. I was thinking the East Coast polls had just closed, when in fact they were still open, and I was dismayed that I had nothing from Hallie. This morning we still have nothing definitive, but it sounds like Trump is going to win. Wow. I really thought there was a “silent majority” that in the end would do what I considered the right thing. Like so many others assessing Trump’s chances, I was wrong. As I see it, the USAian voters first showed that they didn’t like the Republicans, and now show that they don’t like the Democrats either. Congress has earned that slap in the face, I think, but what a risk to hand more power to The Donald.

I just wish we could see how the story of a Trump presidency plays out in the next episode, rather than dragging it out over four years.

Back to Africa. The Namibian coast is low and flat, and the air off the desert creates a mist over the cold Benguela Current coming from the Antarctic region. So even though we have come within five miles of shore, we can barely make it out. And even though our latitude is now only 26 degrees south (Liam points out that this is the same distance south of the equator as Saudi Arabia is north of it), and summer is approaching here, it is COLD. No lounging on deck! Night watch in the pilot house under a blanket.

And this coast is empty. No lights from shore; no airplanes; no chatter on the radio; no yachts; only an occasional ship; rarely even a cloud. We are getting into the groove of 24 hour sailing…kind of wish we were settling in for a longer ocean passage, rather than stopping again and having to restart. Hopefully our Namibia adventure will prove worth it. We are trying to make it to Walvis Bay before dark tomorrow; it will be close.

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Made it. Not before dark. Exciting negotiating a busy unfamiliar harbor in the dark. But we found a mooring, and celebrated with a bottle of wine and a bar of chocolate. In the morning cleared customs (they didn’t even ask for a clearance from Cape Town), immigrations, found an ATM, found SIM cards and topped up data, got a map, and got wifi at the yacht club. Good start. Now we need to find someone to actually rent us a mooring (we don’t know who owns the one we’re on), and figure out how to rent a vehicle and where to go for some fun.

Departure Approaches

Our BPO schedule says we depart Cape Town Saturday, and we’re almost sticking to it. Surprisingly, we are told that the clearance process is easier on Sunday, so we plan to leave Sunday morning.

I have mixed feelings about moving on. Of course, as always, I look forward to continuing the voyage, reeling off some miles, getting into the life-at-sea rhythm. But it is very pleasant here in Cape Town. The yacht club facilities (hot showers, Internet, restaurant, laundry, and water/electricity at the dock) are top notch. Everyone is friendly, and we’ve made some new friends. The exchange rate makes things very affordable for us. It seems that you can get anything done/made for a boat, and done/made well. Why go anywhere else?

The boat I owned 30 years ago was built here. Atlantic 42’s (our current boat) used to be built here. The popular Leopard catamarans commonly offered by Moorings and Sunsail charter companies are built here. In fact, their builder, Robertson and Caine, turns out four of them every week. This is a serious yachting centre. The boats at the yacht club don’t just sit and go nowhere. (Well, some do, of course.) There are races every Wednesday and Friday evening, and a constant stream of events at the club.

And where to go…? We got our Brazilian visas, no problem (other than the high cost), and of course we will sail to St Helena and Brazil. But many people have told us of the wonders of Walvis Bay, Namibia, 700 miles north of here. It isn’t exactly on the way to St Helena, but it isn’t terribly far out of the way either. If we go there we would want to stay several days, because the cool stuff requires a tour ashore. All told it might add a week to our itinerary. We could do that, and still arrive in Brazil by the time I promised Liam and Nora…

In response to a comment posted by a certain cousin of mine, I want to assure you that I have been swabbing the deck, at least figuratively. Scrubbing the growth off the waterline (too cold here to get in the water and clean the whole bottom). Removing a faulty relay for the wind generator, and installing a new switch in its place. Going to the rope factory where they sell remnants and loading up on new lines at fabulous prices. (Three of the “remnants” I bought are 80 feet long! I felt like a kid in a candy store, and if there is time I may go back for a third visit.) Meeting with our diesel mechanic almost every morning to take the next troubleshooting step. (Still have troubles, but hopefully it will serve well enough.) Getting the standing rigging inspected, and following up on replacing some damaged parts (which had to be fabricated, and we just got them today…whew!). Installing the new motor for our windlass. Fixing the corroded wiring on an engine stop solenoid. Stocking up with diesel and propane. Replacing a broken hinge on our table. Etc. Always more to do.

Two days ago we went to a trendy restaurant for dinner with a college buddy of Bill Hickson. Too much great food and drink…I felt lousy in the morning and spent a large part of the day asleep, while Nora and Liam went on a wine tour. Today we shifted into preparation mode. We need to provision for about four weeks, which for us is a challenge both in planning and execution. We ordered frozen meats from a wholesaler, to be picked up tomorrow. Then spent a couple hours filling three shopping carts at the supermarket (and getting a checkout line opened for us, and a lift in their van to get all the food back to the yacht club). One of the mechanics offered to take us tomorrow to a fresh produce market, which we may do even though we bought most of what we need at the supermarket. Besides picking up our meats tomorrow, and maybe going back to the rope/candy store, we are nearly ready. Settle bills, do laundry, fill water tanks, finish stowing everything, watch the weather, and…determine where we are going!

Nora cleaned the bottom on the starboard hull, I did port. We'll see which goes faster...
Nora cleaned the bottom on the starboard hull, I did port. We’ll see which goes faster…
Pass the dirty dishes, please. (Courtesy of Liam)
Pass the dirty dishes, please. (Courtesy of Liam)
Brand new Leopard catamarans.
Brand new Leopard catamarans.
Overview of BPO track so far.
Overview of BPO track so far.
Chart showing our current location, Walvis Bay (Namibia), St Helena, and Cabedelo (our destination in Brazil).
Chart showing our current location, Walvis Bay (Namibia), St Helena, and Cabedelo (our destination in Brazil).