Afulu, Hinako, and Especially Lagundri

Heading down the west coast of Nias from Lahewa, our first stop was Afulu. The entrance was exciting — appearing to have breaking waves all across it. Our cruising guide, limited though it is, gave waypoints for a passage in. Nerve wracking, but no problem. Once inside, there is a huge peaceful bay, where another yacht was anchored. We had a chat with Tim, on Revel, but for the most part we just enjoyed the peace and quiet.

We started early the next morning, heading out through the gap in the surf just as a squall was coming overhead. The squall provided welcome shade, and for a couple hours provided a decent sailing breeze. But as the breeze died out midday, we decided to stop at the Hinako island group. We spent an hour motoring around looking for a decent anchorage, and never really found one. Maybe that’s why these islands aren’t mentioned in our guide or in the notes from any other cruisers!

Very remote place! And made rather eerie by surf breaking in what appears to be open water, no land in the vicinity. The chart shows shallows at some of those places, but others it shows being deep, which is disconcerting.

In the morning we tuned in to an informal cruisers “net” on the radio, and learned that another boat, Convivia, was also bound for Lagundri (south end of Nias), and they were out of fuel. We offered to meet them outside the anchorage and pass them a jerry jug of diesel. As it turned out, they filtered a gallon or so from the dregs in their own jugs, and then sailed in without assistance. But they invited us over for margaritas!

They are a young couple with two kids, maybe 11 and 8. The kids could not be more different from the kids on Tahawus — they are outgoing and want to interact with the adult visitors, and serve us food and drinks, and tell us their ideas about cool inventions. Tomorrow we all go into town together with Todi.

Todi paddled out to us on his surfboard. He speaks pretty good English (though he has the Indonesian habit of saying Yes whenever he doesn’t understand what we say). We had a long talk with him, including arranging tomorrow’s tour and ride into town, for us and for the four Convivians. Then in the evening he took us to his family’s losman (guesthouse) for dinner. We didn’t realize we would be the only ones there. Nor that ordering chicken with our curry noodles meant that they would have to buy/kill/prepare a chicken, and it would take over an hour! No worries, we got to meet Todi’s mother, father, and wife, plus they had Bintang beer that we haven’t had for months. Cold and delicious.

We also didn’t realize when we followed Todi’s lead to shore that we would be tying the dinghy just off the jagged coral, stepping off to the coral, and walking over 50+ yards of coral and mud to get to solid ground. Tim had a case of the shore-sways, perhaps augmented by the margarita, and he went half way into the drink. I blew out my flip-flop, as the appropriate song goes. After the fine meal and large-size Bintangs, we got to find our way back through the mud and over the coral in the dark. We found the dinghy okay, except that the line tying it to the shore had untied itself, and it was hanging by its stern line 50 feet out in deep water. Whatever, a little swim after a big meal…quite nice. A good time we had, and wondering what adventures are in store tomorrow…


In the morning Todi had a truck and driver lined up. We picked up the Convivians and rode through small surf to the beach. Locals helped us pull the dinghy above the high tide line. Off we went to town — first stop a gas station to buy about 80 gallons of diesel (10 for us, 70 for Convivia). This was a little dicey, because it is not legal for us to buy diesel — the government subsidizes the price, and thus it is only for Indonesians. Foreigners have to buy at designated places at higher prices, but of course there is no such place nearby, and of course locals want to pass along the low price to us with a small markup.

We tried to get a firm price before filling the jugs, and our guide said we could have the pump price (since he was already getting lots of money from us for the truck and driver). But then the gas station wanted extra. Tucker from Convivia held the line, giving them a very small bonus, but basically saying no to their requests. Meanwhile our driver was watching police vehicles fueling, and he looked very worried. We did the deal, no problems.

Then to lunch; then to the supermarket for a few things; then to “The Village.” We had no idea what to expect there, but Todi said we could see the traditional stone jumping. This is where a boy coming of age has to jump over a two meter high stone wall, some say with sharp sticks on the top, some say with no knowledge of what’s on the other side (maybe that’s metaphorical), and we also heard it said that a man couldn’t marry until he successfully jumps (but others laughed at that).

The Village turns out to be atop a mountain. Or at least a very long steep hill, and far from the water. From the road you walk up 50 or so stone steps, to a remarkable place. It is expansive and very flat, as though the top of the hill was sheared off or ground down. There is a wide straight paved-with-stones “Main Street” stretching out ahead, with houses and shops strung all together along it. Half way down there is the King’s house on the left, and another long wide flat street across from the King’s place. I am amazed by the stone paving, and how wide the streets are and how flat. This was clearly a special place, a place of power! And so far from the sea!

By now we are being attacked by men selling traditional (maybe) carvings and necklaces and other souvenirs. They are unrelenting, following us everywhere, asking us to look again at their wares — it is for their children to be able to go to school. I buy a carving and a necklace. In retrospect I might have bought several necklaces, but I feel like once I’ve made a purchase I have to say no, no, no, in order to fend off the others and be able to breathe.

Having heard so much about the jumping, it seemed obligatory to pay to see a young man jump. It seemed better in the stories than in practice, but I imagine in the days of old (Todi’s grandfather jumped, so only two generations back) it must have been a major event with everyone watching and feasts and parties.

We walked through the King’s house, which also served as a community house, hosting feasts. It is built up on colossal tree trunks; it is huge; it is massive; and like the streets it has a very solid, very flat (but in this case wooden) floor. The whole Village seems like a museum, but the houses (except the King’s) are lived in. And not much interpretation/history is provided. It was one of the most impressive sights I have seen on this voyage, and I didn’t even know it existed. Glad Todi set this tour in motion.

Then back to the beach. Except…we were supposed to stop at a vegetable market and a store for buying more mobile data. Things got messy at this point. We were already over the 4 hours we had hired the truck for. We needed to get all the fuel out to the boats, and then return some borrowed Jerry jugs. And we still wanted to complete our errands. Tucker and I did fuel; Tim and Victoria had a shopping adventure that included other errands that the driver had to do, plus a flat tire! It was exhausting and more expensive than planned, but it got done. And I got to hang with Tucker for a while and talk about Maine (he’s from Damariscotta), and what made us good at our jobs, and my men’s team, and community, and cohousing, and his dream of having a farm where people doing cool things can come to live cheaply in community, and share their work and have interesting synergies happen. Memorable day!


Next day we were thinking of renting surfboards for a first-ever try at surfing. But first there was the leaky hatch to repair. And more research into a possible battery replacement configuration. And I wanted to replace the fuel filters on the starboard side, because that engine seemed to labor at times. That turned into a long hot messy process, as did trying to bleed the fuel system after, and get the engine to start.

Then Todi came by for a visit, paddling his surfboard with one hand because he had my sandals in the other. He had seen my “blow outs,” and had offered to get them fixed for less than $2. He delivered them back repaired. Not tested yet, but he asserts they are “very strong.” And then I wanted to clean some of the “beard” off our waterline, and say goodbye to our new friends on Convivia. Oh, and go aloft to check that lines aren’t chaffing at the masthead.

So…we didn’t get surfing. That’s a little sad, since we are at a primo surf site — people travel from all over the world to surf here. But on the other hand, we’re not going to get our first lesson out on the big reef break, but on the tiny beach break, which is not what surfers come here for! In any case there may be more opportunities just ahead…


Tim asked Todi if people ever ate dolphins. No, he said, many people believe they are a sign from God. I like that.


It’s a long drive up, up, up to The Village, culminating with these steps…


And the “Main Street” stretches out before you, with the King’s house towering on the left.


The jumper approaches the traditional hurdle. Sorry, I didn’t get a good photo of him mid-flight.


But of course our fee included a post jump photo op.


Where did these huge stone slabs come from? How were they moved to the highest point on the island? Why…? No answers.


The King’s house. Note the enormous logs holding it up above the ground!


The foundation logs run at various angles. Could that be to withstand earthquakes? No nails or bolts, of course.


One of many carvings on the walls. Are those cannons on the boat? They also look like their traditional drums…


This theme repeats at the village entrance and at the King’s house.


Along the street. Artwork outside a cafe?


Ruby and Miles from Convivia show how far (up) the Village is from the shore.


2 thoughts on “Afulu, Hinako, and Especially Lagundri”

  1. wow Zeke, what a fascinating village to discover! In the middle of nowhere on the planet! amazing. so in writing up your daily adventures, how does it impact your experiences and memory/reflection of having them?


    1. Interesting/astute question as to how writing about my experiences impacts them and my memories/reflections. This blog is as much for me as it is for anyone else. The experiences all jumble together, and I can remember few details. Writing at least forces me to identify some details and try to make sense of them before they are lost in our wake. I enjoy reading some of my own posts and having the times brought back again. Writing also gets me to try to interpret the experiences more — drawing conclusions, or probably more often posing questions to ponder. I think that is also good/useful/fun to do before the experience fades away.


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